When you first bring home your puppy he may be excited or frightened by the new surroundings. Of course you’ll want to cuddle and play and get to know each other. But it’s important not to allow the puppy to chew on your fingers or bite you. If you let the puppy think it’s OK to do so now then it will just be harder to break him of it when he gets older.

Here are some puppy training tip you might find useful.

Some people like to begin their puppy training with a dog crate. This is because it’s unlikely that the puppy will willingly soil his immediate area. This technique of housebreaking a dog is only effective though when the puppy is old enough to control his bladder and bowels.

Another method of housebreaking is to show the dog to the door when he begins to sniff around. Keep at it and he’ll make the connection sooner than you might think.

Puppies do love to chew so it’s a good idea to provide a few toys to chew on while teething. Dogs respond better to reward than to punishment. So if pup starts chewing on furniture legs or ripping up the couch, stop him immediately with a stern no. Then take him to his designated area and offer him a chew toy. When he begins to chew on one of these, praise him for doing so. This will reinforce in his mind which things are his and which things are off-limits.

To prevent dog fights in the future it’s important to introduce your puppy to other dogs as soon as possible. Training your puppy now on how to get along will save frustration later on. Just make sure that neither dog is allowed to establish dominance. That place is reserved for humans.

Barking and whining are hard habits to control in a dog. Of course it would be completely unfair to expect your dog to never bark. But you can train him to bark only when it’s appropriate to do so. When is it ok for a dog to bark?

1. When he’s frightened. People scream or cry and a dog will naturally bark.

2. When he’s happy to see you he may bark a little out of excitement.

3. When someone enters your property or knocks on the door. Praise him for doing his job of guarding your home and family but don’t allow the barking to persist. It may be necessary to put him in another room or in his crate.

4. It’s only natural for dogs around the neighborhood to communicate with one another. That doesn’t mean though that you have to allow your puppy to bark all night long. If you’re training your puppy to be an outside dog you may want to put him in the garage at night.

Puppy training can be challenging yet fun. There are times when your puppy will test his limits and try your patience. But if you keep your cool and a positive outlook, the dog will pick up on your attitude towards training and begin to look forward to spending this time with you.

the Techichi Dog

The Techichi is probably known as one only a couple indigenous breeds in the western hemisphere. It evolved into the Chihuahua dog  and was present in the early civilizations of Central America and Mexico. It is believed the Techichi, which did not bark, were used in temples and cared for by priests.  Common belief was the Techichi Dog had mystical powers and could heal human illness and see into the future. Sacrifices were commonly associated to this breed. The red Techichi could guide souls to the underworld, which is proven since many graves have been excavated in Mexico containing the skeletons of these small dogs.

Christopher Columbus reported of small dogs “which were mute and did not bark, as usual, but were domesticated.

Though the Techichi was larger than the present day Chihuahua, as the size decreased, the courage increased and this mighty little dog found its voice.  These tiny dogs are driven by their loyal, underlying love of their owners, and without regard to difference in size will defend home and master without thought of consequence.

The Chihuahua is popular with apartment dwellers and elderly owners. With its big eyes, oversized ears, and bigger-than-life attitude, the Chihuahua is an excellent example of a canine who rules.

Chihuahuas tend to be very possessive and protective with little tolerance for intrusion. There is a story of an elderly woman who admitted a meter-reader without checking ID. Her pregnant Chihuahua followed. She led the uniformed man to the meter, where he attacked her, her Chihuahua promptly attacked and managed to bite the jugular vein. When everything settled after this incident, the woman advertised the courage of her Chihuahua and that this trait is in her puppies.

The Chihuahua’s loyalty is unquestionable, yet it is important to properly train and socialize. The Chihuahua does not adapt to change easily. Although often seen in travel cases, carried in someone’s arms or attached via leash, the Chihuahua is happiest with the stable environment where it can exhibit its playful, mischievous temperament. Because children under 12 move and interact rapidly, it is recommended that Chihuahuas do not be introduced into a family of young children

Every one of us will always love our puppies, primarily when they are being cute and also perfectly behaved. We as well adore these animals even when they act out in bad ways, with bad habits. These kinds of annoying habits, however, might be based on our standards of how we think they should behave.

In the mind of the puppies, they are only acting much like a dog would, imagine that!

But a good way to keep your home a secure and calm place to enjoy, they need to figure out how to behave within the human world, and it is your responsibility as the puppy owner to make that happen.

By using sufficient and practical dog training techniques, almost any puppy can learn how to stop these types of objectionable habits including the ones discussed on the following paragraphs:

The Nipping Habit:

Nipping throughout playtime will be normal for more or less all puppies, primarily if they get excited. Yet, despite how cute any puppy looks or how harmless it may seem to be, nipping is a unfavorable and dangerous habit that should be ceased quickly. Each puppy dog has to learn that, even in play, his teeth shouldn’t contact human skin.

Curbing this behavior now would certainly lower the chances of your pup growing up and biting another person in the future.

The moment your new puppy begins to nip, convert this biting habit into a focused image on his or her playthings, instead of your hands. Provide toys which are tempting to your puppies mouth such as rubber toys that are chewable, spefically those that will have dog goodies inside or the capability to re-load new treats.

In addition suppy soft, multicolored plushtoys that can peak his or her attention.

You should not have to wait for your puppy dog to be older so that you can start to train. Actually, puppies as new as 8 weeks will be able figure out and understand that nipping isn’t permitted. If he or she commences to bite in the course of play, tell him or her “NO” or “OUCH” and back away for a short period of time.

In the event he or she starts to bite again, wander away, visit a separate room and shut the door. But remember, don’t allow the puppy to be on it’s own for any longer than 1 minute. Walking away and leaving your pup, in addition to going to another room with the door closed, teaches him that biting hard will make the “good time” and entertainment go away.

The puppy will ultimately figure out how to restrain the pressure of the nipping. As soon as he or she learns to nip lightly, elevate the bar and say “OUCH” or “NO” once again when the mild bites occurs until your puppy learns to quit entirely.

The Chewing Habit: Another infuriating habit which frustrates puppy owners is undoubtedly when these cute little animals chew on our favorite stuff, especially those brand new expensive shoes. Understand that puppies come with an insatiable urge to chew, mostly in order to soothe their own aching gums when they go through their own teething stage.

It might seem to you to be cruel to stop your new puppy from trying to soothe his pain. However, you should certainly refocus his or her chewing habit to their toys rather than your shoes or boots, clothing, books, and so on.

Always have numerous toys available for them to gnaw on. Get the pup accustomed to chewing on these types of toys by placing them close to him constantly while he’s still young. Ensure that you place these toys in the confined place together with any puppy so that he or she doesn’t concentrate his attention on some other things lying around at home.

When you notice him or her chewing on items they are not supposed to have, say “NO CHEW” in a firm tone and immediately substitute the forbidden object with his or her chew toy. Always, always reward him or her any time he or she starts to chew on the toy.

Don’t hold back the praise. The more, the better!

1: Like I said earlier, the dog will try to be the boss of the house. It’s in their nature to do this. You have to set an example and show that you, in fact, is the dominant one. If your dog is taking your seat on the couch or maybe destroying things in the house, then it probably isn’t because he’s a bad dog or doesn’t love you. It’s most likely because he feel as if he owns the house because nobody has shown him the opposite.

2: A dog needs to explore its surroundings and get exercise. Some people loves their dogs, but doesn’t like walking with them. This will become a problem. Dogs need to go out in fresh air, mark their territory and exercise. If you’re not a fan of walking, tie the collar of your dog to your bike and let him drag you. This is free horsepower and is enjoyable for both you and your dog.

3: Dogs need love too. Cuddling or playing with your dog makes the dog feel loved. And like us, when your dog feel loved it will act more respectful against you. A dog that doesn’t get any attention will probably act out more than a dog that gets the attention it needs.

4: Try to interpret the signs your dog is sending. Not only does a dog need attention, but it also need for you to understand it needs. Being understood makes a huge difference in any social creatures life. Just think about how frustrating it is when you try to get a point across to someone and they have no idea of what you’re really talking about.

5: The dog isn’t human. Dogs are dogs and unfortunately (or fortunately) they are not smart enough to always understand what you are trying to make them do, or not do. Therefore it’s important that you try to associate rules with different sounds, actions or other forms of expression. Dogs are great learners and it is a known fact that dogs are able to do tricks and simple gestures.

Also if you want to know more on how to train your dog I advice you to go online and find some guides on how to do this the best way.

So just follow these easy steps and you might see a difference in your dogs behavior

http://www.squidoo.com/5waystotrainyourdog

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aksel_Hundstuen

The St. Bernard Dog is a very large breed of dog, a working dog from the Swiss Alps, originally bred for rescue. The breed has become famous through tales of alpine rescues, as well as for its enormous size.

Appearance

The St. Bernard is a very large dog with a large head. A full-grown male can weigh between 160 and 260 lb (73–117 kg) or more and the approximate height at the withers is 27½ inches to 35½ inches (70 to 90 cm).^[1] The coat can be either smooth or rough, with the smooth coat close and flat. The rough coat is dense but flat, and more profuse around the neck and legs. The coat is typically a red colour with white, or sometimes a mahogany brindle with white. Black shading is usually found on the face and ears. The tail is long and heavy, hanging low with the end turned up slightly. The dark eyes should have naturally tight lids, with “haws only slightly visible”.

[edit] History

Painting by John Emms portraying St. Bernards as rescue dogs with brandy barrels around their neck. According to legend, the brandy was used to warm the bodies of trapped people in avalanches or snow before help came.

The ancestors of the St. Bernard share a history with the Sennenhunds, also called Swiss Mountain Dogs or Swiss Cattle Dogs, the large farm dogs of the farmers and dairymen of the Swiss Alps, which were livestock guardians, herding dogs, and draft dogs as well as hunting dogs, search and rescue dogs and watchdogs. These dogs are thought to be descendants of molosser type dogs brought into the Alps by the ancient Romans, and the St. Bernard is recognized internationally today as one of the Molossoid breeds.^[2]

The earliest written records of the St. Bernard breed are from monks at the hospice at the Great St. Bernard Pass in 1707, with paintings and drawings of the dog dating even earlier.^[3]

The most famous St. Bernard to save people at the pass was Barry (sometimes spelled Berry), who reportedly saved somewhere between 40 and 100 lives. There is a monument to Barry in the Cimetière des Chiens, and his body was preserved in the Natural History Museum in Berne.^[4]

The classic Saint Bernard looked very different from the St. Bernard of today, because avalanches killed off many of the dogs used for breeding between 1816 and 1818.^[5] Severe weather during this period led to an increased number of avalanches that killed many St. Bernards while performing rescue work.^[6] In an attempt to preserve the breed, the remaining St. Bernards were crossed with Newfoundlands in the 1850s, and so lost much of their use as rescue dogs in the snowy climate of the alps because the long fur they inherited would freeze and weigh them down.^[7]

The Swiss St. Bernard Club was founded in Basel on March 15 1884. The St. Bernard was the very first breed entered into the Swiss Stud Book in 1884, and the breed standard was finally approved in 1888. “Since that time the St. Bernard has been a Swiss national dog.”^[3]

[edit] Naming

The name “St. Bernard” originates from traveler’s hospice on the often treacherous St. Bernard Pass in the Western Alps between Switzerland and Italy, where the name was passed to the local dogs. The pass, the lodge, and the dogs are named for Bernard of Menthon, the 11th century monk who established the station.^[8]

“St. Bernard” wasn’t in widespread use until the middle of the 19th century. The dogs were called “Saint Dogs”,”Noble Steeds”, “Alpenmastiff”, or “Barry Dogs” before that time.

[edit] Related breeds

The breed is strikingly similar to that of the English Mastiff. This can be attributed to a common shared ancestry with the Alpine Mastiff. It is suspected that St. Bernards were used to redevelop this breed to combat the threat of their extinction after World War II.^[9]

The four Sennenhund breeds, the Grosser Schweizer Sennenhund (Greater Swiss Mountain Dog), the Berner Sennenhund, (Bernese Mountain Dog), the Appenzeller Sennenhund, (Appenzeller), and the Entlebucher Sennenhund (Entlebucher Mountain Dog) are similar in appearance and share the same location and history, but are tricolour rather than red and white.

[edit] Kennel Club recognition

The St. Bernard is recognised internationally by the Fédération Cynologique Internationale as a Molosser in Group 2, Section 2. The breed is recognised by The Kennel Club (UK), the Canadian Kennel Club, and the American Kennel Club in the Working Dog breed group. The United Kennel Club (US) places the breed in the Guardian Dog Group. The New Zealand Kennel Club and the Australian National Kennel Council place the breed in the Utility Group

[edit] Activities

St. Bernard demonstrating its strength

St. Bernard dogs are no longer used for alpine rescues, but do participate in a variety of dog sports including carting and weight pulling. A St. Bernard holds the world record in strength: in 2008, a St. Bernard was recorded to pull over 2 tons.^{[citation needed]}

[edit] Health

The very fast growth rate and the weight of a St. Bernard can lead to very serious deterioration of the bones if the dog does not get proper food and exercise. Many dogs are affected by hip dysplasia or elbow dysplasia. Osteosarcoma (bone cancer) has been shown to be hereditary in the breed.^[10]

St. Bernards are susceptible to eye disorders called entropion and ectropion, in which the eyelid turns in or out. The breed standard indicates that this is a major fault.

The breed is also susceptible to epilepsy and seizures, a heart disease called dilated cardiomyopathy, and eczema.

Due to the likelihood of health problems in later years, the average lifespan for a Saint Bernard is around 7–10 years. In Norway and Sweden the average life span of Saint Bernard is about 8 years according to the data from Agria, a pet insurance company.^{[citation needed]}

[edit] Temperament

St. Bernard puppy

This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (April 2009)

St. Bernards, like all very large dogs, must be well socialized with people and other dogs while young if they are to be safely kept as a pet. A St. Bernard not properly introduced to and socialized with children from a young age poses a threat, not having learned to distinguish between a child and other, smaller animals. Nonetheless, St. Bernards are very friendly.

Extremely loyal, the St. Bernard is eager to please its owners. Due to its large adult size, it is essential that proper training and socialization begin while the St. Bernard is still a puppy, so as to avoid the difficulties that normally accompany training large animals. An unruly St. Bernard may present problems for even a strong adult, so control needs to be asserted from the beginning of the dog’s training. While generally not as aggressive as dogs bred for protection, a St. Bernard will bark at strangers and their size makes them good deterrents against possible intruders.

[edit] Notability

[edit] Record size

St. Bernards were exported to England in the mid 1800s, where they were bred with mastiffs to create an ever larger dog. Plinlimmon, a famous St. Bernard of the time, was measured at 95 kg (210lbs) and 87.5 cm (24 1/2ins), and was sold to an American for $7000.^[7] Commercial pressure encouraged carelessly breeding ever larger dogs until “the dogs became so gross that they had difficulties in getting from one end of a show ring to another”.^[7]

The world’s heaviest and largest dog in known history is claimed to be a Saint Bernard named Benedictine, which weighed 162 kg (357 lbs). Benedictine surpassed Zorba, the largest English mastiff on record, which measured 8 feet, 3 inches long and weighed 343 lb. Benedictine currently holds the world record for the heaviest dog that ever lived. This weight was provided, by direct measurement.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Whatever equipment you use with your dog, do check it regularly. Check:
• for wear and tear.
• that it still fits correctly. This is especially important with growing puppies.
• for signs of chewing, which could weaken it.

Essential equipment for all dogs:
• A normal collar with either a buckle or clip. It should not have any tightening action, such as a choke or half-check chain.
• A lead. A lead of 4-6 foot is ideal. If it is shorter than this, you may find that your dog will pull more, as he cannot get away from the tight feeling. If it is longer, it can be difficult to control your dog. Most people prefer nylon, leather or canvas leads. Chain can be used, but this can be very uncomfortable.
• Some form of poop scoop is also essential each time you take your dog out.

Alternative equipment:
Head collars work on a similar principle to a horse’s head collar, in that they control the head. They are extremely useful with dogs that pull, jump up at passers-by and are more difficult to control. It will not teach your dog how to behave, but it will make it easier to control him while you are teaching. Many dogs are not impressed at first and may scratch and shake their heads. Take your time and introduce it gradually, following the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Harnesses are favoured by many people when walking their dogs. It means that if the dog does pull, it will not hurt his neck. However, many dogs can pull more strongly with a harness, and dogs who are required to pull, for example, sled dogs and tracking dogs, would wear a harness for this purpose.

For dogs who pull, there are relatively new types of harness available. They are designed to help while teaching a dog not to pull. They work by putting pressure in a different place when the dog pulls, and therefore he cannot lean into it as he does with a collar. An extending or retractable lead consists of a box which you hold, with a line that extends as your dog pulls. There is a brake to stop. These are useful when you are in a situation where your dog can have more freedom, but cannot safely be off his lead. Please be careful – if they are used near traffic, dogs can still be involved in accidents.

A long line, or old washing line, can be useful when your dog can have some freedom but is not safe off the lead, or when teaching a dog to come when called. Some people find it difficult to use as the excess lead can get tangled. Take care with big or strong dogs – consider wearing gloves to avoid rope burn on your hands. It may be beneficial to use under guidance from an experienced trainer.

Poop-scoop, plastic bag etc. Never leave home without these. Even if you don’t need them for your dog, you may be able to donate one to another owner!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andy_J_Jones

Throughout his entire life, if you are ever having difficulties, come back to this basic principle. Can you get your dog’s attention? If not, you are likely to experience some difficulties in that situation.

Therefore, we will work through:

1. What are you teaching? You to teach your dog that when you his name, it means ‘look at me, something interesting is going to happen’.

2. Begin in a relatively quiet environment, free from distractions. Find a quiet place.

3. Show your dog a piece of really interesting food. Have some treats in a small pot or in a pocket, out of your dog’s reach, holding only one piece in your hand at any time.

4. Use this as a lure to show your dog what you want. Find ways to encourage him to do it himself, Your dog should now be looking at you. Well done, he has already been successful.

5. Immediately your dog does as you want, reward him with the food and a fuss. Reward him.

6. At this stage, do not give your dog any words of command.

7. Repeat several times, until your dog is performing the action reliably. Then begin to say your word as the dog is doing the action, Begin to say his name before rewarding him.

8. Show your dog the treat and say your word. Reward him. No lures are necessary, just repeat several times.

9. Progress until you can say the word and your dog will repeat the action without following your hand. This should be easy to achieve.

10. Start varying the rewards. Use a different or less interesting reward sometimes; at other times, have the treat in your hand but give him only a fuss and praise as reward, as soon as he does what you ask. Continue to practice.

11. Gradually and randomly vary and decrease the rewards given. This means that your dog does not know when or with what he will be rewarded, He needs to respond to find out. Your dog should be confident that his name means ‘look at me to find out what nice things we are going to do together’.

12. Progress to repeating this sequence in different places, with an increasing number of distractions, This is where it becomes more difficult, but it is so important. Practise in many different situations. These will include:

In the house:
• with no distractions
• when a visitor has been here for a little while
• when a visitor first arrives
• when the doorbell rings

On a walk:
• with no distractions
• with a person or dog in the distance
• with a person or dog nearby
• when greeting a person or dog
• In the car
• In the garden

If you find that your dog cannot look at you when you ask, it is unlikely he will be able to do anything else for you. Always go back to this simple premise, which you taught your puppy right from the start.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andy_J_Jones

It’s widely accepted among the vast majority of dog training experts that the most effective and humane way to train your dog is through a process called positive reinforcement training. This is a fancy phrase for what’s essentially a very simple theory:

Ignoring behavior you don’t want your dog to repeat and lavishly rewarding the behavior you do, is the basses to positive reinforcement training. This method is the direct opposite of the once popular way of training dogs, ways that would be considered very cruel in today’s standers, such as using shock collars of cattle prods of corrective tools.

It is your dogs natural instinct to please you, positive reinforcement lessons are more meaningful and tend to last longer in a dogs mind, when a dog learns what you are asking of it under its own actions (your dog sits, you say,”sit”, nice “sit” and reward, as opposed to forcing your dog to sit).

When you use positive reinforcement training, you are giving your dog time and the chance to use its own brain. Some ways you can use this training process:

- You need meaningful rewards. Dogs can get tired of the pat on the head and a “good boy”. ( many dogs don’t take kindly to a pat on the head.)

- Have you ever seen a dog bark or cower a way when a hand come toward their head? To keep a high standard and quality in your dogs learning use more tempting incentives for the desired behavior. A favorite food or treat gives your dog much more incentive. Also know as “primary incentives.”

- In other words, they’re both significant rewards that most dogs respond powerfully and reliably to.

Things you may want to read

Hopefully this article has given you a small insight into the power of positive reinforcement dog training. There is a great deal of information on this subject and suggest you learn as many techniques as possible if you want your dog training to be effective.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Closson